Farewell to Biova, 100 bakeries – Corriere.it closed in Turin in 5 years

from Sofia Francioni

Perino: «We are no longer artisans, but entrepreneurs

. Making bread is important, but then you have to sell it, communicate, understand how the market changes and adapt in time “

La Biova, the rubatà and the Micca. Paisanotta by Druendo, Pane Barbarià, stretched breadsticks and Mother-in-law’s tongue. Carlo Alberto’s bread, the black one from Como, the Raschietta and the Focaccia Novese. One could go further in the list by listing up to 18 types of bread traditionally offered by local workers. It is no coincidence that the popular saying is of Piedmontese origin: “Pan e nos, mangià de Sposa!”

But in the new wave of the loaf, which prefers Kamut to Panet, what will remain of the noble art of home baking? Looking at the data from the Turin Chamber of Commerce, 100 bakeries have closed their doors in the city and province in five years: twenty every year.

The ovens, which in 2017 were 953, today are 905. While the bakeries now stop at 301. Real estate agencies are flooded with advertisements of bakeries for sale even at 30 thousand euros: the bakery in via Onorato Vigliani in Mirafiori Sud (39 thousand euros), the one in corso Sebastopoli in Santa Rita (40 thousand), the bakery in Borgo Vittoria (28 thousand euro), the Bakery in Corso Adriatico (25 thousand euro) and in via Vandalino in Pozzo Strada (65 thousand).

In the mix of a job in trouble, in addition to tripled bills and skyrocketing flour, other factors come into play: the quality of life, up early at night, salaries not adequate for the expensive life and new fashions. According to the president of the Bakers Association Franco Carlo Mattiazzo: «The Turinese put us on a diet for a while. They consume less and less bread, about 80 grams per day, and they ask for it special: quinoa, cereals, gluten-free. Once they produced two or three types of bread today three times as much ».

Raw materials and tastes that change, together with the old bakeries that over time have been transformed into “boutiques”, similar to pastry shops, with a huge range of products and a diner to serve as a side dish. As in the case of Perino in via Cavour: “We are no longer artisans, but entrepreneurs

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Making bread is important, but then you have to sell it, communicate, manage the warehouse, understand how the market changes and adapt in time », says Chiara Vesco, owner with her husband of the Perino bakery, which has been open since 2009.

“We have biscuits, cakes, we even make granola for breakfast. But our core business remains bread. We used to sell loaves from 7 ounces to 2 kilos. Today, consumption has been greatly reduced, but there is a focus on unprecedented nutrition ». Coffee, pastry and bakery Perino offers its customers a bread at 8.50 euros per kg “which can be kept for a whole week”, continues Vesco. «We use Italian organic sourdough and flours which cost 2 euros per kilo. Invoices and bills have all increased and this year there are also no delivery costs so far. It has become a very complex job », he concludes.

Mattiazzo echoes her: «The liberalization of the sector has allowed openings without criteria, only to discover that there are few young people who want to get up at two to make bread. Now with the energy skyrocketing, many are struggling and it is certain that other ovens will close ».

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September 4, 2022 (change September 5, 2022 | 18:01)

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